The index

Eight ingredients, graded on the evidence

Every review opens with an evidence grade and a claim-versus-evidence table, because an ingredient does not have one evidence base. It has one per claim.

Topical vitamin C

Strong laboratory rationale, a thin and short human trial base, and a formulation problem that most of the marketing quietly ignores.

Moderate evidence

Retinoids

The one topical category where the human trial base is deep enough to justify the confidence. Also the one most people abandon before it works.

Strong evidence

Niacinamide

The most tolerable active in common use, with a plausible mechanism and a human trial base that is broader than it is deep.

Moderate evidence

Collagen supplements

One of the fastest growing supplement categories in the UK, resting on a trial base whose funding pattern should give any reader pause.

Limited evidence

Vitamin D and immunity

The clearest example on this site of a claim that is well supported for one group of people and unsupported for everybody else.

Moderate evidence

Zinc and skin healing

A nutrient whose necessity is beyond dispute and whose supplement marketing rests on a claim the evidence does not make.

Moderate evidence

Polyphenols and photoprotection

The most scientifically interesting weak evidence base on this site. Excellent laboratory work, very little of it demonstrated in people.

Limited evidence

Probiotics and the skin gut axis

A genuine and fast moving research field, and a marketplace selling conclusions the research has not yet reached.

Limited evidence
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This article contains no affiliate links, no sponsored placements and no links to any commercial product, brand, retailer or clinic. Nobody paid for it, nobody previewed it and nobody can have a grade changed. Our editorial policy sets out the single disclosed exception that applies to four archive articles, none of which is this one.

Nothing here is medical advice. Speak to a pharmacist, a GP or a dermatologist about your own circumstances.

Before you read a grade

Three pages explain what the grades mean, how to assess a study yourself and why an ingredient's origin tells you nothing about whether it is safe.